Thursday, September 30, 2010

VERNALLY YOURS... WHATEVER THAT MEANS....../ JACKSON, WY TO VERNAL UT

9/25
One of our more interesting days. We left our lovely Jackson campground by about 8:15-- practically unheard of for us! We really wanted to put a lot of miles between us and that campground as fast as we could!! But it was a day of glorious landscapes and silly foibles. Like when we almost ran out of oil. The smell told us something was wrong-- whoops, not enough oil. What to do? Drive back 25 miles to get some more. Not a better stop to do this than Flaming Gorge!! It's beginning to look a lot like Utah here!

After our oil stop and run-back, we were inundated with wonderful landscapes all the way to Vernal. We stopped again because the breaks were beginning to smell hot. Bill had forgotten to engage the camper brakes, and the  pickup was taking on the hill by itself.  On that particular stop, one of the storage doors got left open, and when we arrived at our campground, our large water jug was missing!! Later on, I continued this trend by bumping my head for the 100th time on a cupboard door I had left open ---AGAIN, and catching my toe on yet another cupboard door. Like I said once before, we are a pair truly meant for each other!!

What a klutz!!

Here are a couple of my favorite views on the way down to Vernal:








Wednesday, September 29, 2010

IT WAS A ONE COYOTE DAY

9/24

    We didn't get as far as we wanted to today but perhaps that's because we really didn't want to leave Yellowstone. We were on our way down to Vernal, WY, but we got as far as Jackson, WY. First of all, we drove south through the park-- otherwise we'd have to go around, and that is definitely the long way. However, this way is NOT a fast way, because we had to deal with all of the other people and vehicles, turnouts, photo ops, etc. Oh, and construction, that will hold one up for about 30 minutes. No matter, it was a nice drive. I got to see more geothermals, and the one I liked best was the Roaring Mountain-- as long as the wind wasn't blowing and the cars coming along on the road, we could hear the vents "roaring". ( faintly).  
The drive past the Grand Tetons was also most glorious. Too bad it was just a glimpse.


And, for wildlife, we saw one kinda mangey coyote slinking across the road-- so we called it a One Coyote Day.
   We landed in Jackson, WY in the late afternoon, a fair distance from Vernal, so we decided to stay right there.
Jackson is probably a wonderful town, but we didn't see its good parts, because we weren't walking. We chose the truck route through, mostly because the other route was so jammed up. When we emerged from the other side, we chose a KOA campground, because we've had good luck in the past. Koa supposedly monitors their campgrounds, but we think they missed this one. It is the most expensive KOA so far, and also the worst one – bar none- that we have stayed in.

Sunday, September 26, 2010

MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS :WHERE'S THE WATER?

9/23



   The last time we were in Yellowstone, we saw Old Faithful and the Norris Geyser Basin which I loved. However, I somehow lost all of my Yellowstone photos-- seems to be my thing-- and they were some of my favorites. So it was with great anticipation that I entered the Mammoth Hot Springs area in the hopes of getting some more pics of geothermal activity, which fascinates me.
   No elk in the village today and no Xian in the car-- I'm sure he was glad to stay “home” and sleep on the bed! The hot springs area is just outside the village, and it covers a lot of ground. The upper and lower terraces are joined by a series of  boardwalks and many steps.


   It's too dangerous to walk on the ground, even though it looks plenty safe. People have been known to fall through the thin crust and plunge into scalding hot water below. And more than a few larger animals, I'm betting. We saw some tracks. 
   It probably takes a minimum of 2 hours to see it all; we spent the time but didn't cover all of the ground, I'm certain.  The first stop was the Minerva Terrace formation.

 Maybe you've seen it or the famous pictures of it, steaming water flowing over beautiful rocks of varied oranges and rusts. About ten years ago you could still see this, but a couple of years ago there was an earthquake, which sent the water into different places. This is a characteristic of the hot springs anyway, and the water may appear here again and it may not. There's plenty of it on the other side now! Some is now starting to come up in the village. Anyway, the water stopped flowing over Minerva Terrace which turned white and is so bright as to blind the eyes! Actually, it didn't just "turn" white. That's the color of the travertine, of which these formations consist. The color comes from the microorganisms living in the water, so if there's no water flowing over the travertine, there's no color. In this photo, there is a small amount of water streaming down, and hence the colors.
   I'm sure we spent over two hours at Mammoth. My favorite place was over on the other side near the Canary Hot Spring. I absolutely love the textures on the bottom of the shallow “lake” and could have spent hours photographing it. I'LL BET some wonderful abstract paintings, pastels and pottery could come out of this. I think I'll just post a bunch of my favorite pics and let them speak for themselves. By the way,the patterns and textures are formed by the minerals in the water. As the water cools, minerals drop down, and the action of the water over the minerals causes the most beautiful of patterns. Organic matter-- like the pine branches- also fall in and are coated with the minerals.






   Leaving the hot springs area, we headed back, stopping along the way to photograph some elk in the river. Once down on flat land we stopped into the Association building where Bill just happened to run into the executive director, who took us on a tour of the renovated building. Bill had some ideas to exchange with her regarding Native American participation in the park, and she seemed quite glad for the exchange. A really neat lady.
  We aren't happy to be leaving the park tomorrow- even a week isn't long enough, but two days? We envy the couple we met who are staying for a month!!! The screaming face below says it all! WAAAAAHHHHHH!!!!!!!


YELLOWSTONE/BLACKTAIL

9/22


A later start to the day than we had planned, but a nice day  nonetheless. We stopped that the Yellowstone Association park store before beginning our trip into the park. It's a newly renovated building, which once was a mercantile store built in 1904. It's situated just before going through the Roosevelt Arch ( north entrance ) into the park, and at that time, it carried just about everything you can imagine. Now, it houses offices for the association, serves as an information center and has a very nice gift store. The staff is extremely knowledgeable and friendly. We got the skinny on where to find wildlife. Oh, to see wolves-- that's our hope!
  The weather is wonderful out here, and the park still has many visitors, so traffic can be a bit snarly. Our first glimpse of wildlife was in the little town of mammoth hot springs, where elk grazed everywhere from the town hall, to the lawns. They were oblivious to the traffic that was jamming up, and some of them simply lounged on the lawns.

   Of course, this got Xian going, and we were rapidly closing the windows and pulling away from the crowds as a ranger came over, probably to tell us to move the Voice Box on!
    The day was spent mainly in the area called Black Tail, and though we didn't see a lot of wildlife, we did see some gorgeous country, stopping many times for photos, and to give Xian some play time. What fascinated me most was the sun shining behind the aspen trees and setting them afire.


   Sometimes appearing in an entire stand, sometime contrasting with the deep green of the pines, the aspens shimmered and trembled in flaming gold-- took my breath away. I kept taking pictures and more pictures, but the camera simply did not capture what I saw in the way that I saw it. Look at the photos and then pump up the gold about ten times!! (I think  Bill has some better photos which I can show you later.)

We saw plumes of smoke from a lightning fire in an area called Antelope-- the road has been closed there for almost a week.


   It's always sad to see the burned areas in a forest, but I have to remember that what comes up as a result of more sunlight provides food for animals who will return to that area. again. Trees reseed quickly. Lodgepole pines in particular germinate quickly after a fire. Lodgepoles are thick in this area from a fire in 1988. There's also a stark beauty to what's left behind.

   And these bare poles, a lot having fallen, provide food for insects and a habitat for small mammals and birds. In the life of a forest, fire is a regular visitor, and a new Phoenix arises from the ashes every time

     On the way down the mountain, we came upon a sheep jam, so we jammed in and took a few pictures ourselves.




The sheep, a few buffalo plus the elk were the extent of our wildlife for the day. No wolves. ( Sigh)

Ooops, I was wrong! Look at the wildlife I found in the sagebrush!!

Thursday, September 23, 2010

BOZEMAN TO GARDINER, MT


9/21
     Wow! What a fun day today has been!! From Bozeman to Yellowstone should have taken us, oh, maybe two hours without stops. Can we ever do a trip without stops? Of course not!
BOZEMAN! I think I may change my town of choice for my next life to Bozeman. It's not far from Yellowstone, there is a good selection of restaurants and shops, a short drive will take you into some of the most beautiful country we have ever seen, and it has a phenomenal grocery store! I'm sure you're shaking your heads in disbelief. Folks, you've never been to Rosauer's, the grocery store to end them all. We just happened to be passing by the store when I remembered that we needed some stuff—not a lot, but who knew what Gardiner would have. When I walked in the front door I was simply stunned. The door opened into the hugest produce department I have ever seen in a grocery store-- bright, colorful , well-organized and full of a big variety of exceedingly fresh vegetables.
And a very friendly young man named Mike who told me all about the store and what a great place it was to work here.

Just after talking with Mike, Bill walked in the door, and the look on his face was priceless-- absolutely goggle-eyed! Our little trip to the store turned out to be at least an hour, as we wandered into the various departments. Organic produce and food, a pharmacy, natural foods, herbals, vitamins, etc. Not just a few shelves, but whole departments. Great beer and wine selection, prepared foods, salads, bakery.

 You name it, they had it, but the ambiance was also wonderful. I must have had 4 people ask if they could help me; everyone smiled; customers were friendly and chatty; checkout folks helpful and fun.

Out of Bozeman we took a back road that led up the mountain and eventually turned into a good gravel road. We saw homes of all sorts, some McMansion-types and some ranch types, old and new. There appears to be a good bit of money out here, and many of the large homes were built way up into the hills. We stopped for long along the road-- very little traffic-- and had lunch. Pulled out the chairs and ate our sandwiches looking into the meadows and hills.
The land was for sale, we don't know how much of it or for how much, but we found the house of our dreams, nestled into the brush!!




    Not far from Yellowstone we stopped at a rest stop to play ball with Xian. Soon thereafter an Anerica Asia Tour bus drew in and disgorged a slew of Asian folks, who instantly zeroed in on Xian and his activity.
 



Cameras clicked, people giggled, asked questions, took pictures of each other by the river and had their pictures taken with the “wolf” who complied like the star that he is. I chatted with the tour guide-- Chris from Vietnam-- who gave me a lot of info about their company and tours to China. As the group started slowly toward the bus, Xian investigated the bus and decided to get on!! ( He much prefers bigger rigs!) We ushered him quickly out, as some of the people who didn't get off the bus weren't quite sure how they felt about him. Finally we got in the pickup and waved goodbye to the group. A short way down the road I mentioned the info Chris had given me, but that I hadn't gotten any particulars on him or the tour. In an instant, we are turned around headed for the rest stop. Before we could get there, along the road came the bus.

You got it-- Bill stopped the truck, leaped out and flagged down the bus. Much more laughter from the bus as Chris wrote down the appropriate information, and Bill gave him a big hug.


Ah, that husband of mine-- never a dull moment!     
    Once in Gardiner, where the north entrance of Yellowstone is located, we booked into Rocky Mountain RV park-- we were lucky to get a spot. The weather has been great, and we are definitely not the only people traveling. The family of home-schooled kids is also in this campground.


Wednesday, September 22, 2010

GOING FOR YELLOWSTONE

9/20
It was with regret that we said goodbye to Jeanne and Gil and Glacier N.P. It didn't take too long for the mountains to fade away and to become a wonderful memory. And of course we'd love to come back.



Going

Almost gone



                                                                     All gone!!!              

During the day we made some stops to give Xian a break as much as for us. One of our stops put us next to ranch land populated by horses. A fair distance from Xian and me, behind a barbed wire fence, a couple of horses stood giving us the once-over. They must have decided we were OK, for they casually ambled towards us and stopped, putting their heads over the fence. Of course, our boy was singing out in great voice, but he quite doing that when one of the horses put her nose down to sniff him, as if to say “Nothing to worry about.” Soon they were nose-to-nose, becoming friends. Both horses gave Xian the big sniff! And both horses loved having their necks rubbed- very social creatures. Bill has some neat photos of this, and I'll post them later.
   Montana is amazing. Now we were out of the glacial country into the volcanic. Such changes in weather and land!! The sun has shown its face, and we're now in country that looks like it belongs to dragons! This country brings to mind the Chris Paolini series about Eragon the dragon.









   We were glad to stop for the night in Bozeman, MT. We hadn't gotten as far as we thought we might, but it was nice to have some time to relax. Yellowstone wasn't far now, and we could have an easy day tomorrow.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

LAST DAY AT GLACIER


 9/19
                          Ground squirrel denizen of the park.

   They say you should never ask for a weather forecast in Glacier N.P. and surrounds, unless of course you are a flatlander! The weather here can change from hour to hour. Today was sun, clouds, more sun, more clouds and finally rain. We've had everything from snow to wind, to rain, to snow and back again. Also never ask a Byers to commit on how many days they'll stay anywhere. We've stayed an extra day, just couldn't leave this beautiful place. Plus we had made dinner plans with our new friends, the Freys, so it was a catch -up and blog day. I was going to do laundry, but......
  Time for dinner arrived and Gil came to announce that he and Jeanne were taking us to dinner at the Many Glacier Lodge. Well, who were we to pass up such a generous offer? Off we went with Gil driving-- took us about a half hour or so to get to the lodge, and by that time the rain was coming down in sheets. After Gil parked, Jeanne and I oogled the boys in their leiderhosen and then we found our way into the enormous dining room, complete with very high ceilings hung with banners/flags of different countries. Very European ski lodge dining room. Not too many people were in the dining room when we got there. Our waitress led us to a table by the windows. We had just settled down when Gill remarked that he was getting wet. Rain was coming in from the top of the high window and splashing down upon the sill and also on Gil! The waitress moved us down a few windows...same thing. On the third seating by the window where the water was actually pooling on the sill, Bill asked “Is there any reason you don't want us to sit in the center where there is no rain?” Waitress replied “But I thought you wanted to sit by the window.” We had no preference as long as we didn't get wet.........

   Long and short of it, dinner was lovely. A very nice bruschetta as appetizer; trout and medallions of beef and risotto for the main and no room for dessert. Much white wine was consumed and many laughs and stories exchanged. Gil and Jeanne are wonderful folks, and we're looking forward to seeing them again in Williamsburg, VA where they live. Jeanne is a retired Spanish teacher, and Gil is on the cusp of retiring from his dental practice. They have a great relationship, and are such fun to be with. As it happened, we literally closed the dining room down. For the winter. It was their last night, and many hoots and shouts emanated from the kitchen!! Off to new adventures for the kids.
   On the way back-- and I swear this was not the wine- we saw a mountain lion in hot pursuit of either a dog or a coyote. As the pursuer stalled a bit in the road and our headlights, we hoped that the pursue-ee got away! Shortly thereafter we all pursued our way to bed in our respective campers...............


  to dream about our time in Glacier N.P.