Thursday, October 28, 2010

HELLO, THE HOUSE!!

10/25

 
   Got home at about 5PM today. Everything looks good, and indeed, it is good to be back. Our house looked spic and span from a recent cleaning, and the plants were alive and well, thanks to another friend who also came in several times weekly to check up on things, sort through mail and flush the toilets occasionally.( This was suggested by our next-door-neighbor to prevent a buildup of gas.) One of the first things that Bill did was to put a fire in the stove-- CT is COLD!!! So cozy.
So............we're home, and the blog is about to come to a close. Our trip is now a memory and a lot of photos. What did we bring back from this trip? Three very important things. 1. We bring home the re-affirmation that our United States is a wondrous country, and each state has an abundance of beauty to offer everyone. 2. We bring home new and renewed friendships and the knowledge that there are amazing people everywhere we go. 3. We bring home a richer closeness in the two of us; we travel well together and enjoy the intimacy traveling like this brings, enriching our love for each other.
    We are so lucky to have had this experience and look forward to new adventures. And now it's time to move on! Happy Halloween everyone!!!

Bill's Word

        Warnings: You may read, herein, what already has been narrated in Susi's voice. So be it. These are my words not to over thrust nor to be a discontinuity; just my reflection of days on the road.
        By way of noting, Susi is the blogger; I'm driver and sleeper. I make repairs, she takes good care of Xian (and me.) She cooks, I eat, sleep, study the maps and plan our next routes. Camera work differs: she takes photos and writes for the blog, I take shots for myself; I am moved by what I see; serenity, majesty, awesome land, expansive land, flat land, fields of grain, corn, soy beans, hay, and fence lines that go into another century, control burns or geologic features.  I find humor seeing a table mesa of rock formed in a sea 130 million years ago, and that is now framed by recently placed power poles and lines.





Wishfully, I would show you much, but so much of it exists only in my memory, and those are virtual scenes -  here a moment then gone.

President Dwight D. Eisenhower made a decision that resulted in the national  crisscross of  highways  known as the Interstate system. Makes for fast furthering across the land and a roadside ecology ripe for corporate commercial concerns such as hotels, food emporia, malls, fuel stops and way side draws advertised as entertainments wondrous to see and visit. Take those roads as needed and expect to see corporate America along the way.  I preferred the national, state and county roads traversing farm lands, ( Rt 380 Texas, Trail Creek Road, Montana) canyons, forested hills and valley, towns and hamlets; places of small villages, some thriving, some beset with boarded up store fronts, and over-night stopping place as Gary and Sharon's 'Silver Wind RV Park and Cabins' in  Silverton, Tx). These are the roads we like to drive, such as Nebraska SR 2, 375 or so miles from Grand Island to Chadron in Nebraska and paralleled by the BNSF railroad.


Just north of Anselm, Nebraska I spied a roadside stand and sign for Fresh Garden Tomatoes and Vegetables. Went past it in an instant but a quarter mile north along the way,  I did a U-turn with the camper to go back beyond the sign, do a second U-turn and stop for produce. Can't do that out on the super-slab.

Traveling these roads affords a unique spontaneity such as the time in Grand Island ,upon suddenly seeing the Logo for Nature's Variety Pet Foods to my left as I passed large buildings, and making an instant check in rear-views and the road ahead, I slammed on the brakes and reversed directions into a parking lot. We met office staff, Xian did tricks and took snacks from  a bag I had in the truck; much laughter, people from the warehouse came to visit Xian, and we left with a 30 pound bag of his favorite chow and gift of snacks.



       In Lewistown, Montana, instead of moving on early in the morning, we towed back into town, found a health food store; dropped Susi off to get coffee at The Rising Trout Cafe,  and then I drove round and round and round until Susi met me on a corner with goodies and coffee.  So good were these goodies that I found a 5-car-place on the street and parked the 50' of camper and truck. We spent the better part of an hour there. Ah!

       Glacier National Park, and Megan in Roswell, NM were always prime points of travel, still we allowed ourselves to respond to local knowledge, whim, and interest in what the map showed us. The road from Miles City, Montana to Roundup, SR 12, bisects rolling hay, and wheat lands. Out along the hills is a quarry mine yielding an earth used in making fertilizer. I can't recall what. I was tired and looking for a place to stop spied a cattle pen and loading station with plenty of parking place into which we zipped and stopped. Diagonally across from us a dirt road disappeared toward that quarry. And the road needed frequent wetting to keep down the dust. As it turned out we were parked in the turn-around space for those water trucks, a fact I learned when one pulled in and stopped. Me. Well! In complete confidence and attitude of knowing what I was doing, strode over to the driver's door, climbed the step opening the driver's door, and announced, “ “Welcome to the Rt 12 Truck Stop part way from Miles City to Roundup. Parking is free! The cafe is closed right now! And the fuel depot is just now empty, I hope you have enough in your tanks, and (seeing his cracked windshield was mostly mud added) we do not wash windows.” The driver, a 20- something smiled and laughed. Fun!
      Often the people we met made the country what it is. If I set aside the geology and agriculture then its the humor, wisdom, openness, thoughtfulness, and giving of those we met. As in past trips we made friends whom we shall see again. Many of them came and went and no photos. We did not meet just people. On Rt 2 in Valier, Montana, while I stopped to check the map, Xian took Susi on leash to a pasture fence to meet the local inhabitants. Nice! A nose to nose greeting with no snorting nor barking.  
 

       Out there in the land, politics and politicians were forgotten. Washington, state capitals, and town halls were non entities. Just folk. Some times we listened to opposing points of view, but we heard them in the context of life-in-a-place. Those words made more sense than 'speeches' uttered by a pol from Alaska or Washington, or Connecticut.

        Animals and birds. Great Horned Owls, Prong Horn Antelopes; Round bales of hay, straw and alfalfa,  and beef cattle; Grasses and trees. Ponderosa Pine, Lodgepole Pine, and Douglas Fir. Hanging Valleys and up-thrust blocks of 450 million year old sedimentary rocks.

         Without doubt the greatest of all of this trip was being able to share it with Susi. To see and meet the country with her was supreme. At times she lead me to new places and people (Jean and Gil Frey and wine in the Casita Camper, St. Mary, Montana.) At times she helped me with my fatigue. She is my excellent co-driver, my partner, my love. I'd like to think of us as two work horses in traces side-by-side not one following the other. Her photos awe me for their sensitivity, composition, and documentary veracity.


      Here are a few of my  photos to share with you. The first is a photo of  Susi at the steering wheel (you may refer back to Susi's entry as as we went up and over the San Juan Mountains in Colorado). Now that is concentration. I love it!  and call it "White Knuckle Susi".








           A favorite  is  this one of the dead tree in Glacier National Park.










 A mountain prow thrusting through spirit-like fog.  There is a sacredness to this land. Creation and "Spirit Of and Behind" creation meld and are felt here.
John McPhee's   Annals of a Former World presents an eminently readable book 's geology as seen along Interstate 80 from New York to California.  Well written at times humorous, droll, it is entertaining reading yet remains an excellent explanation of the geologic history of our country. It helps to understand and  elucidates what one sees here in the mountains and valleys of Glacier National Park, as well as along the New Jersey Palisades.



A grizzly bear eating red osier dogwood berries. the bear seems annoyed by a viewing gallery.




Oh, this one too!  Mae;  Cadet Byers, M. L.;  in her uniform and “Top Gun” shades. She is a freshman at New Mexico Military Institute. Proud of her.  Yes sirreee!

So, time to rest. Time to get on with other adventures in the local scene. And to start thinking about the next voyage with our land-vessel across North America's rolling seas.

Bon Voyage
Bill

Sunday, October 24, 2010

HANGING OUT IN PA



10/15-10/18
    Friday we reluctantly said "so long" to Jack and Nancy and headed even further east into south central PA to see friend Bill Saganich. He and wife Yvonne bought this farm almost three years ago, but have yet to sell theirs in CT. Hence, Yvonne is in CT and he in PA-- a bummer. For us it was more hanging out in a wide valley surrounded by rolling hills, other farms and colorful trees. Love that front porch in the sun, putting my feet up with a glass of wine and a bowl of mixed nuts handy by.

A highlight was breakfast with Yvonne's mom Millicent and son Keith and wife Katie at the Wooden Nickle in Millersburg, and a home-cooked meal with the same lovely people around the table the previous evening.. Millicent is 88- for breakfast she had a western omelet, toast and a pancake, which inspired me to do the same without the toast. Yikes!

    Being in PA made me homesick for the small towns with a vibrant downtown in walkable distance, houses with porches that abut the sidewalk, ( funny how I never noticed that while growing up but I do now.....) family-owned restaurants instead of chains, tree-lined sidewalks. The whole small-town ambiance that formed my childhood and adolescence-- I miss it.
      One of Xian's highlights was chasing Bill's sheep around the fence and two farms over....lucky Bill has Gracie as his right-hand girl. Once pursued by Xian, the sheep kept wary eyes on his whereabouts at all times, and like the sheep they are, usually kept tight together and faced the enemy. ( We kept an eagle eye on him as well!) How could they possible know that Xian only loves the chase and not the kill?


Sheep are out!!

Sheep are comin' back in!

The intrepid Grace.

Intrepid (?) Clowns

Who watches whom????
   Speaking of the boy, you will be glad to now that he finally settled down to traveling around about the Yellowstone visit. Bill noticed that if we kept the windows open in the backseat, he would go from window to window before chilling out. Yup, there he was, eyes asquint, hair blown back, ears flattened, lips a flappin' with a broad smile on his face! The demons that drove him to keep trying to jump into the front seat calmed down and reared their ugly little heads only once in awhile.
     Monday the 18th arrived—our target date to be home-- so we sadly and abruptly re-entered the world of maniac cars and trucks, and hurry, hurry, hurry. Our one last stop to prolong that agony was at an Amish produce stand where we indulged in funny gourds, apple turnovers and some of the last home-grown tomatoes we will see until next summer.

OH OHIO!


Coming from Covington, KY to Cincinnati OH
10/11
    It took us all day and into the night to arrive in Lancaster, OH, where treasured friends, Jack and Nancy Bowers awaited with dinner. Meanwhile, we had been noticing while we traveled east that the liberating openness of the land was shrinking down. The landscape became greener and greener, and the sky smaller and smaller as the trees encroached upon us. Don't get me wrong, it was beautiful, especially with the cloak of many colors the trees began to wear in Ohio, but we were missing the vast landscapes we'd grown used to.
    We had left our drab little campground in Arkansas that morning, went two hours in the wrong direction, finally arriving at our destination around 8:30 pm. Wine and dinner happened about 9-- we thought we were in Spain-- and since our camper was parked on a downward slope of their driveway we were happy to go to bed in a conventional house. Happy? We were ECSTATIC!! Such spaciousness and a shower with unending water. ( We didn't empty their well...) A huge kitchen with no open cupboard doors for me to bang my head on. Utter bliss!


    Probably more ecstatic even than we was Xian who slept throughout the night without asking to go out. We decided not to go back to the camper until we had to leave Lancaster. Sometimes we make brilliant decisions!
     We had a great, relaxing time with Nancy and "Jockie." Highlights include Jockie's Eggs Benedict and 
homemade mushroom soup; going to Columbus to see The Last Smoker in America....interesting and headed for Broadway. Bill moved some piles of dirt in the backyard, ( They have lovely gardens ) and in Lancaster, we took Nancy's little green bug to check out a glass-blowing lesson and then the Arts and Clay studio, where you can paint your own or create your own from start to finish. We ogled the over-the-top Halloween decorations on some houses, and just hung out with the Bowers whom we LOVE.  

Do you know what a skid steer is?


The Art and Clay ( and play!) Place


The license says it all!!

.
The parking meter cover who became a garden goddess.

Who could ask for a better driveway entrance?

OHIO LOVES HALLOWEEN!!

I really got a charge out of the Halloween decorations in Lancaster, Ohio.( Can you tell?)


                                                       Come into my parlor...............
Ooooooooooooooooooh, I LOVE you, baby!!

Trick or treat......
Is this over the top or what????

SMOKIN' DOWN THE ROAD

10/10

Today was one of those crazy days that makes you shake your head a lot. As in, where did I start and where am I going? It was a day of covering  A LOT of ground-- we sizzled through Arkansas, a wee bit of MO, some of Tennessee and into KY, where we are now. Arriving at the Exit 31 RV Park ( really creative name!) dubbed the “newest Good Sam's RV park in western KY", we were told there was LOTS of room. However, we found the sites to be few, and most of the ones that looked unoccupied had someone's car or tricycle ( Yup, that's right) in it. As we drove around the campground ( small) a second time, a guy flagged us down to tell us that our steps had dropped down, and we had hit ground with them as we were rounding a corner, for the second time......Yes indeedy, those steps were smashed, as in jammed, crooked, and immobile.( Expletive deleted.)
    Bill, who is amazing with tools, picked an obviously empty site (because, as we later found out, it had low water pressure) and got out the come-along and a variety of other tools. Phil, from next door came over to help, while I took Xian away. ( Xian is terrified of our slide-outs, and if he even hears the word, he heads for the woods. He's not into tools that go smash and bang, either.) Lots of banging and what-all going on for a long time, when Xian and I came back to sit on the pavement beside the truck to watch the repair. Pretty soon, I heard Xian growling at something under the truck, which turned out to be a small skunk. By that time I had had it, and Xian and I fled to the camper. Not too much later, the steps were smashed back into a semblance of themselves, retractable, and useful-- tomorrow we'll have to find new steps.......!!!!!! We had dinner kinda late tonight.....and in the morning the skunk was gone.
While flying through these southern states I had some quick impressions:
  1. Lotta churches and a lotta car dealerships. ( Are they connected?)
  2. Lotta white cars and trucks. ( Reflects the sun.)
  3. Lotta cotton fields. (Yeah!)
  4. Whole lotta flat ground alongside the highways....
  5. Lotta places with funny names like Pickles Gap-- doesn't that tickle your funny bone? How about Bee Branch-- kinda neat, wonder if they have secret lives? Rabbit Ridge...oh, and Goober Town, how would you like to live there? And the best has been saved for last: TOAD SUCK PARK!!! Don't ask, because I don't know!

FURTHER EAST

10/8
A short day, by gosh. Flew past some really HUGE farming operations and some feed lots black with cattle. Not a pretty sight....nor smell. We stopped by a cotton field to pluck a few puffy balls to bring back home.

Then we found Great Plains State Park, TX and went in for lunch by the lake. Decided to stay-- really took advantage of the peace and quiet. Off the road early....how nice....sigh.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

HEADING BACK

10/7


A fairly long uneventful day, passing through some pretty dismal and down-on-their -luck little towns. Main streets lined with abandoned stores with empty dingy windows, ramshackle houses and outbuildings. Very sad. ( See Deonne's blog about Encino, NM.) Also passing by a lot of cotton fields and big business farms. We took an hour out to visit the Blackwater Draw Museum, where the exhibits showed early Folsom man, flora and fauna  and geologic conditions 30,000 ago.
   We stole another hour toward the end of the day at Huarache De Oro, set up on a street corner in Texico, NM.  Bill spied the display and practically did a u-turn in the middle of the busy street. The terra cotta ware is called Talaveras; the slip ( liquid clay) is poured into molds and then bisque fired. After that first firing, the glaze is painted by hand, in very intricate designs. Elias showed us a piece of extremely hard stony clay, which they pulverize and then mix with water. We bought one of his small pigs and a couple of planters. Truly, it was difficult to choose-- we wanted to bring it all home with us!



About dusk we landed at the Silver Wind RV park in Silverton, Texas, a gem of a park that Bill found in the camping directory. We were the only folks there in an airfield-sized park with flat, spongy grass. No one was around, so we took a spot-- any spot!-- and set up in the soft warm air. Occasional shouts from the crowds at a football game over yonder would be heard-- kind of a homey sound. Later on as I took Xian for his nightly constitution, I heard coyotes yipping far off in the distance. I know that I may be in the minority on this one but I like that sound.
The following morning we met our hosts, Sharon and Gary, who have owned the place for 3 years. They also had four charming little cabins outfitted just beautifully, and both take great pride in their RV park, always planning some sort of upgrade, like paving the sites and the road.

PREPARING TO HEAD EAST

Tuesday we said goodbye to Doug and Jen who were headed back to the "res" to resume their daily lives. We hung out at the park for awhile, and then spent come time in Roswell at the library hooked up to their WiFi.  SUPER library; new modern building and lots of places to hook up the technology. I was particularly fascinated with the huge children's area with its many whimsical papier mache sculptures


Back at the ranch, we met Donne Kahler, a writer who was taking her shakedown trip in her brand-new Scamp. ( 13 feet long, and smaller than a Casita!) Deonne had some questions about hooking up her fridge, and later we invited her to come over for supper and wine. Now here's a gal whom we'd like to know better. Absolutely charming, great sense of humor, and writes a fun blog. http://www.gonescamping.com/ – the comments on the blog are almost as interesting as the blog itself!


On Wednesday we picked up the truck in Ruidoso ( Doug and Bill had taken it over on Sunday to have the fender replaced, and we had rented a car.)  This took a lot longer than we had thought, given what the body shop had told us that morning. In the meantime,we stopped in to Mescalero to see Doug and Jen once more as well as to visit Jen's brother's grave site way back up in Elk, where the tall pines keep watch quietly. By the time the truck was ready, it was about 5 or so, with a drive of more than and hour and a half back to the camper. 'Twas a long day for all of us.
Xian didn't much mind, he'd found a new friend who thought he was just the bomb!!!
   The following day we had to say goodbye once more to a new friend. Deonne was to move on the next day, and we had to put on many eastward miles. (BOO HOO!! ) Nonetheless,I really think that our paths will cross again.


SOME WAYS TO HANDLE THE WILDLIFE AT BOTTOMLESS LAKES S.P.


                                                              Help it across the road.


             Ask it to pose and take its picture. ( Swainson's Hawk)

   If it's an Apache eagle aka horse, deer, or house fly....SWAT IT!!!

PARADE!!

Parade on Monday in Roswell-- schools cancelled for we don't know what reasons-- and everyone in the town played a part, either as participants or viewers, or so it seemed. First came NMMI-- the real reason we were there-- almost a thousand kids marching.

                                
                                 Some in perfect lock step,


                                        and some not.
 Then there were the police and the fire departments with their equipment. Politicians pranced around next, throwing out candy and handing out cards. Then came the floats of football and soccer, cheerleaders and lots of little kids. The Future Farmers of America were there as well as the Girl Scouts. There was the farmers market and the arts association.


Even the health care facility had a part in the parade, with a float bearing residents in wheel chairs! ( Will that be Bill and Susi in the future? After all, we will always want to be traveling!!!)
   Post-parade we had a brief tour of NMMI, and then Megan and a good friend, John, were raring to be off to do something fun, like go to the fair. NMMI is an impressive campus, and I loved seeing the newbies walking single file and cutting square corners-- wherever they go on campus.

The PX


                                          Inside the box

                                         Mae and John
After some time at the fair the kids came back and got into civvies- swim suits so they could swim and boat in the inflatable.

Darkness came quickly and soon it was time to get back into uniform and return to "the box."